To reach Filodivino you have to make it up the hills inland from Ancona. This region is rich in vegetable gardens, olive groves, cottages and small villages that retain the authentic and familiar atmosphere of Italy’s less-travelled countryside.
We arrive at Filodivino resort and face a brick dwelling that stands amidst expanses of vineyards. The first impression? Lovely. It could be a friends holiday home. Natural and authentic. A rooster is crowing in the distance, a tractor is driving across the fields, you hear the tolling of bells.
The hosts
Moving down from Milan in search of a provincial life with a slower pace, Alberto and Alida have chosen to set their Plan B in this bucolic corner. The focus and also the starting point of the project was their passion for wine and their dream of dedicating themselves to their own production. We are in the territory of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, an environment particularly favourable to wine production.
Initially, when they bought it, the property was a ruin. Today Filodivino encompasses 19,000 hectares of vineyards producing around 120,000 bottles a year. The cellar on the property is spectacular, a contemporary structure that seems to emerge from the garden. This is where all the production steps take place and where the wine tastings are being set.
Design and architecture
The entire architectural project was overseen by architect and friend Cristiana Dell’Acqua, who followed every detail in first person. The main house and the adjacent structures housing the eight rooms were built using bricks dating back to the 16th century recovered from local farmhouses.
The design is mixed with the simple materials and details typical of the local country houses. The dialogue with the vineyard is constant in every space, from the rooms to the spa.
The rooms
The eight rooms all have access to the outdoors through a private veranda overlooking the garden and the vine. There are five suites, including one ‘luxury suite’, with a private panoramic terrace. Two ‘suites’ have an extra living room, then there are two ‘grand suites’ with two bedrooms. Most of the furnishings have been hand-crafted for Filodivino. The common thread is nature, which appears in every detail, from the fabrics to the colours.
Wellness and relaxation
The pool is a contemporary oasis, offering a breathtaking view of the surrounding countryside. The panorama is like a painting. The spa is equipped to offer all services: Turkish bath, sauna, Kneipp path, jacuzzi, both indoor and outdoor. There is also a gym and a menu of massages and treatments upon request.
Food
Alberto and Alida have also chosen to bring the authenticity of the territory to the table. The cuisine is simple and tasty, homemade, and many products are being harvested in the garden. Lunch is reserved for guests only, while dinner is also open to visitors and locals.
Nice detail: The kitchen is run by three very young chefs: Maria, Andrea and Giacomo. None of them is older than 21 years old. Every dinner is a celebration of local craft, of course also dedicated to tasting their own wines. On Thursday evenings dinner is even accompanied by a jazz concert.
Experiences
An added value of Filodivino are the special experiences that are offered to guests. Alberto, Alida and Daniela, the third soul of the house, are always on hand to unveil little gems: unknown churches, unmissable trattorias, and less-travelled beaches. The nearest beach is only 25 minutes by car.
Many villages can be visited in the vicinity: San Marcello. Jesi, Morro d’alba, Senigallia, Loreto, Recanati, Fano, Cingoli, Elcito. Obviously not to be missed is the Conero Regional Park, with its turquoise waters and unspoilt Mediterranean maquis. Wherever guests decide to go, they always have a range of trustworthy advice, just what one would expect among friends. Activities such as Vespa tours and oil tastings can also be organised, as well as a simple snack of crescia and local salami.
Ideal for
Discerning travelers in search of that special, very personal house. A week in Filodivino in autumn is probably one of the most beautiful experiences in Europe.
Journey
There are quite good flights to Ancona International Airport. From here it’s only 17 minutes by car / cab.
Price
Suite around 370 euros per night including breakfast.
Booking & Contacts
Filodivino Resort
Via Serra 46
60030 San Marcello
Le Marche / Italy